The Life of André Leon Talley
André Leon Talley, referred to in the industry as the fashion bible, passed away last week, leaving in his wake a series of accolades and accomplishments that raised the bar, set a new standard, and transformed the world of art and fashion in a singular way. The former creative director and editor-at-large of the fashion bible, Vogue magazine, Talley’s career covered more than five decades and he is widely regarded as the driving force behind the elevation of people of color both on the runway and behind the scenes. Over the course of an esteemed career, Talley directly influenced advanced the careers of several designers of color, including LaQuan Smith, Serena Williams, Isse Miyake, and many more.
From Rags to (Fashion) Royalty
Born in Durham, North Carolina in 1948, Talley was raised by his grandmother, who he credits with influencing his sense of style at a very early age. As a teenager, he was a voracious reader of Vogue, a precursor to where his career would soon venture. First attending an HBCU and earning a degree in French literature from North Carolina Central University, then later an M.A. in French Studies from Brown University, Talley’s initial plans were to teach French, but his love of fashion saw him enveloped by the industry’s biggest stars, and soon he had his first job as an assistant to avante-garde pop artist Andy Warhol. By 1983, Talley had been hired as editor-at-large for Vogue magazine and soon on his way to becoming one of the quintessential voices on fashion not only for Americans, but the entire world.
A Career of Curation
In addition to his role at Vogue, André Leon Talley boasted an impressive career that included serving as the international editor of Russian fashion magazine Numéro, journalist at Women’s Wear Daily, The New York Times, and a reviewer for fashion shows in New York and throughout Europe. In an industry dominated by white names, Andre Leon Talley never forgot about his community, and following a stint in Paris landed a job at Ebony, the premiere Black publication founded by Johnson H. Johnson.
“My family did not read WWD at all, nor would they even have known where to purchase that publication. But they all subscribed to and read the monthly Ebony, as well as Jet, a weekly publication that addressed the black community on a national basis. Finally, I had a job that would make my entire church family and all my aunts and cousins proud,” wrote Talley in The Chiffon Trenches.
Read more André Leon Talley quotes.
Standing at 6-foot-6 and known for his penchant for kaftans and canes on the red carpet, Talley was an imposing figure in the fashion world who worked with the biggest names in the industry, including friendships with Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, John Fairchild, and Paloma Picasso. Aside from reviewing fashion and serving as a walking, breathing encyclopedia of it from classic to current times, Talley also was noted for mentoring in the fashion and entertainment industry, including Dario Calmese, Jennifer Hudson, and others. Talley helped dress the former First Lady Michelle Obama, who in 2009 wore a Jason Wu dress to the Presidential inauguration, which helped propelled the designer’s career to new heights. And, in the 90s, Talley hired model Naomi Campbell for a Scarlett O’Hara shoot at Vanity Fair.
A Champion Of Diversity
As the creative director at Vogue, Talley used his considerable influence to challenge leading fashion houses for more diversity on the runway and in managerial positions, a stance which earned him accolades and recognition at a time when few were in a position to do so. As a member of the LGBTQ+ community, ALT made it a point to challenge the status quo and praise designers that dared to attempt the unconventional and the singular. For his leadership and activism, Talley received several awards, including France's Chevalier de l'ordre des Arts et des Lettres, the Eugenia Sheppard Award for Fashion Journalism, Council of Fashion Designers of America, the Honorary Doctor of Humanities, Savannah College of Art and Design.
Beyond the Runway
One of the highlights of a monumental career was serving as the stylist for President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama, who wore a dress made by one of Talley’s mentees, Jason Wu. He became the artistic director for Zappos Couture in 2014 and released a few books, including co-writing MegaStar with Richard Bernstein, his autobiography A.L.T.: A Memoir, and the follow-up, The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir. He was introduced to a new generation of fans as a judge on America’s Next Top Model and through his own radio show on Sirius XM.
The Layers Of a Legacy
André Leon Talley’s imprint on the world of fashion is undeniable, and his insistence on more diversity forever shifted the paradigm in the industry and paved the way for more people of color to procure top positions in some of the world’s leading labels.
With André Leon Talley’s death, the king of fashion may have exited stage left, but his spirit of singularity will continue to resonate for generations to come.